garden conservancy open days

I just got an email officially announcing the Garden Conservancy 2010 Open Days Program www.gardenconservancy.org/opendays/index.pl.  This year my garden will be a part of the program, and will be open all day June 26th along with several other Bainbridge Island gardens.  I am looking forward to opening my garden again – I love to have visitors and to chat about everything plants with them.

So mark your calendar and if you are in the area, come over to the island and make a day of it.    There are some great cafes in town to be enjoyed, like Cafe Nola (www.cafenola.com/) not to mention a few great nurseries (Bainbridge Gardens, Bay Hay and Feed and Mesogeo).  I hope to see you here.

be a good gardener

Last week, I attended a lecture at Bloedel Reserve (www.bloedelreserve.org/) given by the design team of Withey Price (Glenn Withey and Charles Price).  If you are not familiar with Withey Price, they are not only revered designers here in Seattle, but also curators of Dunn Gardens www.dunngardens.org/index.php.  Prone to be being name dropped by clients and other landscapers, it is truly well earned as their work is stunning.  They are a treat to hear speak as they are knowledgable and provocative, while still being friendly and approachable.  Best of all - they are very witty. 

The subject of their lecture was questioning whether gardening can be sustainable.  They raised some good questions about sustainability in sourcing materials and the trade offs of using one material over another.  Many landscaping materials are obtained or created at some ecological or humanitarian detriment, so the question they asked is which evil do you pick.  They also raised the question of native vs exotic and the very nature of gardening….is an all native garden really a garden…and where do you draw the line on ”native” – local to your neighborhood, island, county, state, region???  Is something that is native to Western Oregon ok to call native here?  What if it is invasive here? Not to mention manures…how are these animals kept – are they in cages or on feedlots?  I know I don’t spend the crazy amount of $5 a dozen eggs to ensure the chickens are hormone free, organically fed, free range and while we are at it – well adjusted - to then by yards of manure produced by oppressed chickens.  No way.  And as Charles and Glenn pointed out, as you start asking hard questions of many garden product suppliers – you are met with blank stares.   So what is a good gardener to do?

Paralysis by analysis aside, there are choices we can make as gardeners that collectively will have a profound impact.  I know that it is easy to say to oneself, “it is really not a big deal to use a little of this or that because afterall, my plot is small compared to the rest and I am not doing near the damage of agribusiness.”  Seductive, but the problem is that if too many of us think that way, collectively, home gardening and lawn care can create a significant amount of pollutants and toxins for our furry, feathery and buzzy friends.  And it does.  So what can we do?  I tend to think that using common sense almost always aligns with sustainable and organic practices and this combined with a little relaxing of our need for perfection takes us forward leaps and bounds.  Below are a few of my design and gardening tenets that I believe to be sustainable.  After all – we gardeners are out to create beauty and if this is at a detriment to the very things we find beautiful, it is just not right.

1. Toss the chemical pesticides and  herbicides:  Number one, without question.  I am chemically sensitive so I can’t go near the stuff – a visit to Home Depot’s gardening section gives me a headache (my husband calls me “the canary”).  I am like the shop teacher missing fingers – do as I say, not as I do.  My chemical sensitivity may well be due to unprotected exposure to a garden chemical several years ago.  Even if you can tolerate it, most creatures can’t.  So don’t use it – if a plant requires toxic chemicals to look acceptable to you or to survive – it needs to be replaced.   Careful design, right plant – right place, and ruthless editing can completely eliminate the need to rely on chemicals.  Hey, those bees are important to us, let’s keep them around.  Learn about organic methods for dealing with pests when they crop up.  There is a plethora of data out there.
2. Reduce or eliminate the lawn: I know why we love lawn – there is much research out there pointing to our natural inclination to open, savannah environments on a primal level (we can see those enemies coming).  It’s also a monoculture that covers space effectively.  However, in many climates, lawn requires too many resources.  In California, it is water which is in peril after many years of drought.  Here in Washington, water usage in the summer is also an issue as this is the drought season.  Add to this the fact that many grasses do not grow well here, and certainly not in the shade of large trees.  In spring, when out biking, I often see fellow gardeners dutifully sprinkling their moss kill out on the lawn and I think uuugggg, just let the moss grow instead – obviously you are working against nature.  Moss is green too.  Some other alternatives to consider -
   • reduce your lawn size to what I call a “pocket lawn” – still gives you the open space to rest the eyes with less resources and time required to maintain
   • if you do have lawn, research which varieties do best for your conditions and always grow from seed, not sod
   • convert your lawn to a “meadow” using ornamental grasses – check out John Greenlee’s new book “The American Meadow Garden” (photography by Saxon Holt, enough of a reason to buy it).  Why go out hiking to seek “nature” when you can create it in your front yard.
   • eliminate your lawn entirely and replace with permeable hardscape combined with beds of carefully selected plants right for the site and conditions
3. Research, plan, design:  Don’t underestimate the design step in creating a garden.  You don’t necessarily have to hire a professional (although we always love it when you do) but do give this step its due - planning is very important to the success of a garden.  Check out my prior post on things to consider when designing a garden blissgardendesign.wordpress.com/2009/03/08/design-and-sustainability/
4. Think carefully about water usage:  Here in Western Washington, it seems like we have more water than we want most of the year.  The issue is during those dry months, and that is when we need to water our gardens.  Xeriscaping is not appropriate for all conditions here – some sites will kill drought tolerant plants in winter.  However, there are many ways to achieve water conservation such as grouping plants with like water needs together, using a low volume drip system that delivers the water needed to the plant roots, allowing grass to go dormant in summer and harvesting roof water for the ornamental garden (personally I would skip the edibles) with rain barrels or other more sophisticated systems. 
5. Use compost: Pretty much the wonder material in my opinion.  Feeds, reduces weeds, retains moisture.  You can make your own or buy it.  If you are feeling productive, make your own – but be sure to keeps those weeds and diseased materials separate and try to get the pile heated up to pathogen killing temperatures.  If you buy – you are helping to close the green waste cycle, but not all composts are created equal.  Look for a certified organic producer and if you want to take it one more step – ask if they test their product regularly or you can have it tested.  Some composts are exacerbating fungal issues here in Western Washington – but I still think it is the best thing since sliced bread.
6. Rethink perfection:  This one is tough for me.  After a few years of having my gardens on tours, photographed and looked at by prospective clients, I have gotten a little obsessive.  And in general – perfection is sold to us at every turn.  But it is OK to lower our standards.  A good reminder…so – repeat after me…

“There is no garden police.”

“If my plants don’t look picture perfect like a magazine layout, then that just means I am normal and have a life outside of gardening.”

“I am the only one that notices the idiosyncracies.”

“I do not need to have the greenest lawn on the block – in fact a dormant, golden lawn makes me think of the sun kissed hills in  Sonoma.”

“My garden is naturalistic (eg ok to be a bit wild).”

And most important:

“I took up gardening because I love it and it is relaxing.” 

April in January

“Hi January, it’s me, Tish.  Um…calling to apologize about my prior blog post where I said you were my least favorite month of the year – among other less than complimentary things.  Hey, you have been a real peach this year.”

Actually I should call El Nino and thank him.  January has been mild and enjoyable this year thanks to a strong El Nino pattern sending storms south (which is not a good thing for CA due to the heavy rains).  For us, it means less precipitation and warmer temps.  All will be well as long as we don’t dive back down into a deep freeze in February which will damage buds that seem to think it is spring already.  In the meantime, I think I will enjoy another sunny day in the garden.

in praise of echeveria

I love Echeveria.  These chubby little succulents are fabulous looking with waxy, unreal colors.  My only complaint is they are not hardy here.  If I lived further south in San Francisco or LA, I’d have whole beds of these succulents with agave too.  I’d stuff them in everywhere. Alas, the Pac NW climate is the antithesis of succulent happiness (gobs of rain), so I have them indoors in winter and outdoors as soon as those evening temps climb higher and things dry out. 

Lola also loves Echeveria.  Fortunately for her, they are not poisonous. Unfortunately for me, she routinely mangles them.  I think she also likes their chubby look and cannot resist the temptation to bite.  So after a few months, I may be left with a few good looking ones and several that have been hole punched by her fangs or where the poor things have lost all their leaves after the repeated and rude assaults.

Given Lola’s penchant for browsing, below is my recent recreation of the Echeveria pot after a visit to Home Depot. Note: I am not a supporter of big box nurseries and the strong chemical odors in Home Depot nearly always give me a migraine.  On the other hand, they can be counted on for a wonderful selection of Echeveria at good prices when no one else is carrying them – like in winter.  So I get in and out as quick as possible and head home with the loot. 

For a pot like this – select three or five of a few varieties and go for differences in texture, size and color.  I opted for blue and chocolate colors in a matte black pot.  Then, cram as many as you can in…you will be harvesting some smaller ones, but the look is best when it is stuffed.  Make sure to have the pot in direct sunlight indoors and out.  I added a smaller pot to the big one with a few of the extras.  Lola has already noted that this is conveniently at her mouth level and has been sampling.  We shall see how long this arrangement lasts… 

the perp - do not be fooled by the cuteness

january…ho hum

I think January is the hardest month of the year for gardeners…or maybe just me.  It is the one month of the year where I really can’t justify working in the garden because I would just be compacting the soil and stepping on dormant plants.  Likewise for Bliss, this is a quieter time of the year where much of my work is at my desk.  In short, I am not getting my dirt fix.  My garden slumbers and with the low light and rainy days, I am not sure if I am awake either.   I remind myself that there are just a few short weeks until February when the hints of early spring arrive and I begin the process of getting my garden ready for the upcoming season. 

However, this where being a gardener is a distinct advantage.  While I know well that this weather will continue off and on until, let’s be honest with ourselves - MAY – once I see life begin to return to the garden I no longer care whether it is a little dreary outside.  In fact, I prefer the cooler weather for my work.  I know that seeing the buds grow larger and tips peaking out of the soil promises much more to come, and that is enough for me. 

That said, while January is my least favorite month of the year, I try to remind myself that there is plenty of beauty to appreciate and be thankful for.  My favorite winter treat - seeing the sea green colored lichen on the bare branches of shaggy big leaf maples (Acer macrophyllum). 

If you are like me and gazing outside wishing for spring, take heart – it is closer than you think.  In the meantime – check out the NW Flower and Garden show in early February at the Convention Center to get your fix www.gardenshow.com/seattle/index/.

a few of my favorite things: part 1 – grasses

Like many gardeners, I am a plantaholic.  While I try to plan before I buy, I am not always immune to the charms of plants.  Sometimes fall prey to the outstanding beauty or unique nature of a certain plant then work to find a home in my garden.  In fact, I have been guilty of completely redoing an entire bed to design around a plant.  Despite this, I need to keep the garden looking good year round and my beds are also stuffed with dependable friends.  With the motto that it is best to test things in my garden before a client’s, I try a variety of plants.  Then, I cull what I think are the best. 

Below is the first installment of my picks.  I’ll start with my favorite group, ornamental grasses.  I could design entire gardens with grasses, their seasonal color, movement and grace is unmatched.  Every garden should have several.  Some of these are quite ordinary, however I have found if you fill your garden with many dependable performers, then save a little room for the unique (read: needy), you can be a collector, yet still have a well designed garden.

• Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ – There are a few cultivars, but I always select ‘Aureola’ which has a fine line down the blades that gives the grass more definition.  Cascading over a path, a rock or massed in a group - this one is dependable, low maintenance and breathtaking.  Slowly expands to a larger clump.  Prefers some shade and does need regular moisture.  Also prefers humus rich soil.  Pairs beautifully with the black heucheras such as ‘Obsidian’.  In sun, it will bleach a little lighter - but this color effect is beautiful too.  Herbaceous.
• Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’ – Another light colored grass for those damp areas, however don’t put it in the shade – this one needs sun or it fades away.  The purplish-bronze inflorescence in late summer are outstanding – better when positioned for back or spotlighting with the late afternoon sun.  Herbaceous.
• Miscanthus sinensis ‘Adagio’  and ‘Morning Light’ – There are so many Miscanthus to choose from, however many will flop on you later in the season if not given perfect conditions…and in my eyes – nothing is worse than a grass that has opened up and is rudely smothering its neighbors or sprawling over a path.  I love to use them for form and movement, but I stick to these two for dependable upright habit, coupled with good color effects.  ‘Adagio’ stays shorter, has a fine white stripe down each blade and bronze inflorescence in late fall.  ‘Morning Light’ provides a punch of white – like a beacon of light but often will not flower until the clump is mature.  Thin blades keep this grass upright and strong.  Both need as much sun as possible to reach peak performance.  ‘Morning Light’ is a little slower to fill out, so if you want immediate impact, invest in a little bigger specimen at purchase (#3 or #5).  Not always easy to find these sizes – but Wells Medina seems to carry them in the bigger grasses.  Herbaceous.
• Anemanthele lessoniana – Still included, despite its marginal hardiness here in the Pacific Northwest.  Winter 08-09 did some significant damage to these – especially ones already hampered by poor drainage.  Regardless, what else gives you this effect?  You might say Carex testacea…but I would argue in favor of Anemanthele any day – especially with that foamy pink inflorescence….wow.  Lots of sun, and drier conditions seem to keep these guys happy.  A protected position also helps keep them looking good.  If there is too much die back after winter, cut back to the ground well after the last frost in spring.  Better yet, give them a good clean up in spring by raking out the dead bits.  With the orange color effects, I love to pair these with blues. Semi-evergreen.
• Deschampsia cespitosa ‘Goldtau’ – Many deschampsia are not stocked at retail nurseries – primarily because they don’t show well in the pots. Are they worth it?  Take a look at Piet Oudolf’s work.  Get these guys in the ground and you will not be disappointed.   ‘Goldtau’ has attractive, dark olive, semi evergreen foliage that sticks around through winter (and looked great after the last winter with all the snow).  Then, in mid summer, masses of foamy gold seed heads coat the plant.  Needs some moisture like all deschampsia.  Best in a mass – even better back lit. Semi-evergreen.
• Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’ – In the wrong position, this grass looks terrible – sulky and anemic.  Put this pup in your tough hot and dry positions and it will thrive with splendor.  Very little else will give you this ice blue color – plant in trios or masses for best effect.  A good combing each spring keeps the thatch out.  I love it with the smaller, deep burgundy barberry like Berberis thunbergii var. atropurpurea ‘Concorde’.  Evergreen.
• Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’ – OK – not a grass, but everyone thinks this is a grass and it looks like a grass so I include it here.  It is actually an evergreen perennial.  Outstanding chartreuse evergreen foliage brightens shade.  Takes sun in stride too – but does need moisture.  Great for edging ponds or creating a watery effect.  One down side to these that I sadly learned this year – voles love them as much as I do; specifically their fleshy roots.  I had a magnificent full stand that was devastated by these little monsters, and I have not had much luck with the ultrasonic devices.  I refuse to bait because of the impact on the food chain (e.g. – vole dies in forest and eaten by larger animal that then gets sick too).  Not above trapping and relocating to another part of our property… 
• Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’ - Sadly an annual here in the Pac NW (hardy to about 40 degrees), mature stands are ubiquitous in warmer climes.  This is a fine looking grass with soft, fluffy seed heads that look fabulous in pots or beds.  Purchase a larger one for the best summer show.  You will find that you want one in the garden every year.

That’s it for part 1.  Up next – dwarf conifers.  Forget about the swathes of junipers overused in the 1970s – there is so much more out there now…

Molinia caerulea 'Variegata'

make me over

I am a sucker for make overs.  A TV show, magazine layout or even a friend’s photos, I love to see transformations.  This time of year when it is dreary out, I like to take a look back at the prior year’s projects and remind myself that indeed, this season will transform to spring in due time. 

I put together some photographs from one of the projects completed in 2008-2009 to share with you.  If you click on the image below, a larger version will be pulled up.

In the first series of photos showing the front entrance gardens, the top left photo is of the garden before any work was completed.  The photo to the right shows the same area after the existing plants were removed and the beds shaped.  Many of the existing plants were salvaged and stored in a nursery bed.  The bottom left photo shows the completed space with the new creek bed to accomodate seasonal run off, platform bridge and surrounding gardens.  The final picture on the bottom right shows a close up of the bridge and creek.

In the next series of photos showing a path through the back gardens, the top photo on the left shows the space when I first saw it - the client just had some soil spread.  The fresh soil provided a wonderful clean slate for me to “draw” the lines of the garden.  The photo on the bottom left shows these lines.  The final photo to the right shows the completed garden in late summer.

The next set of photos from the same garden shows several stages – I was lucky to have taken a photo from the same vantage point at various times during the project.  While I always promise myself I will do this, in the heat of things, it often does not happen.  However this time,  I was lucky to be paying attention. In this series, the drainpipe to the left, the neighboring house, pines and bay laurel all provide a constant to orient yourself photo to photo.   The first photo in the top left corner shows the space when I first saw it and the photo to the right of this shows the lines.  Same as the prior series, soil had been spread which gave me a chance to draw onsite.  Usually this is done with spray paint, but working in the soil with the rake was much more fluid.  The photo in the bottom left corner shows the space with beds built and the “pocket” lawn base prepped.  This picture also shows a new set of stairs from the upper deck to the patio.   The photo to the right of this shows the plant layout, and the corner of the flagstone patio and stairs that had just been constructed.  Since the grade difference between the upper patio and lower lawn and gardens was subtle, a series of three low rise, long tread stone stairs were added to divide the space.  The final picture on the far right shows the garden and lawn filled in, and pots added to the finished patio.

Well I am ready to begin my next garden transformation!  Now where is that spring….

brrrrr

Well it is finally here – the cold weather. The next week is currently forecast as the first hard freeze for the Seattle area – with drops into the 20s and teens possible. I have been busy composting my beds for added warmth and covering tender plants with Reemay.
 
While we are spared from the really low digit weather that other parts of the country enjoy, we still can take some precautions for the best results in our gardens.  Some reminders for the folks here in Western Washington:
 
1. For new plantings – take a walk around the garden before the cold weather and check if there are any plants where the compost/soil has settled too much at the crown. If any roots are exposed, rough up compost to add coverage or buy a bag of compost at the nursery to supplement. If the plant is mounded up too high in the soil – lower the plant so the crown is at grade or pile up the compost around the mound for now. Plants can be popped out of the soil with frost heave. I have seen it – it’s ugly. Nothing worse than trying to replant into frozen ground.  
 
2. Since we are done with the watering – disconnect hoses and consider the protective covers for your bibs.  
 
3. Empty any glazed pots or containers that have collected rainwater – remember that drilled ones sometimes get clogged and can collect water. 

4. Make sure your planted pots are watered. It is often the lack of water in frozen soil, not frozen foliage, that causes frost damage.  Having them go into the freeze dry does not help.

5. Don’t be so fast to remove those fallen leaves…definitely shake them off the evergreen plants, but on the ground around plants or over herbaceous dormant plants provides some frost protection.  For sanitation/disease reasons, I generally remove all my leaves over the late fall/winter, but I only complete small areas at a time so I can replenish the compost at the same time to provide added frost protection.  In the meantime, the leaves can add some warmth. 
 
6. If needed – protect plants that are not cold hardy. A good option for protection is Reemay cloth, available at most nurseries. This lightweight, breathable fabric provides just enough protection without weighing down the plant. Never use plastic to protect plants.

7.  If you have any homeless plants (I always do!) hanging around in plastic pots, make sure they are watered, group them together and if possible, store in a protected area (near house, under over hang etc). 

8. Walk your gardens after a hard freeze and check for frost heave.  It is not as prevalent here since freezes are not deep into the soil, however I have noticed that saturated soil (very common this time of year) freezes much deeper and plants can heave out of it.  I call it the “ice spike” effect.  Sometimes it’s just the top layer of compost heaving up, so check the plant crown for exposure.  If you see a problem area, replant the plants if possible, or if the ground is too hard, mulch with whatever is available until you can replant (leaves, compost etc). 

9. Don’t forget the birds – when we have a hard freeze or snow here, the birds have a tough time finding food.  If you have feeders, don’t forget to keep them full during the cold weather.

Bundle up and stay warm!

water water all around…

Cliff Mass confirmed what I already seemed to know – November is the month with the most active weather here in Western Washington. Check out his blog entry for today – the last two weeks in November are historically the worst for heavy rainfall, and things begin to improve in December  http://cliffmass.blogspot.com/2009/11/wettest-stormiest-two-weeks-of-year.html . Hopefully this holds true this year – my seasonal creeks are flowing like it is January – which means the soil upstream is at capacity.

Since we get a bit of a break in the weather next week, maybe we have already paid our November dues…

bliss on sunset.com

Thanks to Sunset for including a Bliss garden on the gardening homepage!  See “Savvy in every Season” at www.sunset.com/garden.